Zalman Tech RESERATOR 1 V2 Water Cooling Kit

I have NOT found this review helpful because...

I have personally run a SINGLE resevator V1.1a, for over two to three and a half years now (on two PCs, cooling BOTH units!)

Simple technique to making this work, is to find the COLDEST place in your house / office and mount the reservator there (directly in the strongest draught!) Also if necessary, add a reservator TOP-FAN {I have one, but very rarely use it, model number ZM-RF.}

Then purchase enough PROPER ZALMAN hose (this is clear BUT it is marked along it's entire length, with the name ZALMAN in white lettering, so you CANNOT mistake it.) Purchase enough to take it where you want to go to. DO NOT BUY IN 1 METRE LENGTHS, BUY 2x the full distance to PC (and back) in a single length (plus a spare 10-15%,) for the internal PC routing, thats if you can obtain it, if not purchase in 4m lengths minimum!!!

Take the output hose from the Resevator DIRECTLY to the 1st CPU, via the 1st Northbridge, 1st (2x RAM) & then to the 1st VGA in that order, coming from the Radiator/Pump/Tank!

Note: This is where many/most people are going WRONG! The CPU, is more often than NOT cooler, than a GPU, & you do not want to overheat either that, or your Northbridge, as it causes system crashes... This is clearly the route to take, unless you use 2x reservators.

Note: There is a guy in the UK who has fitted two (yes TWO reservators!) just to cool his twin over-clocked GPUs! See here:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=13359197&postcount=10

for full details of his system?(s) Yes he does have a seperate system to cool his CPU too!

My setup goes from Resevator/Radiator direct to CPU, onto Northbridge, then onto 2 x RAM Coolers (see www.candccentral.co.uk for these, DON'T BOTHER WITH THE TT ones! They're rubbish and leak continuously! Plus they're pigs to fit!

Coz I'm using 2 x identical PCs on one [very complex] dual-cooling system.

I then added (for a second PC) a TT reservoir/radiator, and left it external (I removed the 12cm fan as it is not required) and fed the output from the first PCs' GPU, into this radiator, and then onto an XSPC reservoir single height 5.25" tank in PC #2 (where I can also fill or top-up whole system,) from this tank I then took it onto a TT flow-indicator [in PC #2] (this is a dual-height 5.25" bay with a mini Reservoir built-in,) this leads onto an XSPC tank/reservoir/pump (all in one unit.)

This then starts the feed into PC unit #2, which goes [EXACTLY] as per the first CPU -> Northbridge -> 2x RAM_Coolers -> GPU, then finally back out to the input point on the reservator / radiator.

There are FOUR temperature indicators [2x TT with flow indicators, 2x XSPC] and all display out onto LCD displays. Temperatures NEVER rise, above 32-34C on either PC, the latter one in the entire system is occasionally 2c higher than the first. This is two sensors for each PC, TT in, and XSPC out.

So just remember from Resevator go to CPU, Northbridge, RAM, then to your GPU, (or GPUs) in that order, as per the ZALMAN instructions!!!

Note: Do not use any other COOLANT than the ZALMAN, as galvanic corrosion could occur, (by using the WRONG / or / CHEAPER fluid.) This is how this can occur! I still have NONE after 3-3 1/2 years of use.

I replaced my ZALMAN coolant after 1st year, but this really was not necessary, as there IS NO corrosion, in any of my unit[s] the resevator or the CPU/GPU blocks etc. at all! Despite CONSTANT USE! So now I only replace the cooling fluid after every 18 months or so. This means I may without my two PCs for a day or two, so I then use my laptop, while I'm making certain there are NO air-bubbles, or leaks anywhere, in the whole system.

Water-Blocks used for AMD X2 64bit duaL-CORE CPU 4800+ (overclocked 17.5%)

2x Zalman ZW-B5

for Northbridge

2x Zalman NWB1

for RAM

4x MIPS DDR Ram Freezer (from candccentral, only ones that really work.)

2x Aquacomputer AquagraFX For GTX 480 (GF100) G1/4 (also from above supplier)

My whole system including computers & GPU, never runs above 34.3C ([Highest recorded] on second PC) and 33.1C ([Highest recorded] on the first!)

So how anyone, can claim higher temperatures, I personally just don't understand, unless they DID not properly remove all the air-bubbles from their water-blocks! AND they are also overclocking their (systems) and their GPUs well-above the manufacturers secifications! Or they failed to run it for 24 hours before running it for real???

Advice: Before fitting water-blocks to PC!

Fill with pre-mixed cooling-fluid (proper Zalman cooling-fluid & CLEAN filtered {through 3x coffee papers} distilled water, use hose clamps to prevent leaks from the hoses, where required & between fitting each and every water-block.) i.e. Also fit plastic-caps (onto hose inlets to water-blocks) to prevent any possible leaks and shake them vigourously after filling, (to top-up or refill as required,) this removes any trapped air-bubbles, and by shaking at different angles removes any air-pockets.

Then tip the whole block, ([during pre-fit to PC] hose-fitting) with caps still on, so that any remaining air-bubbles go toward the EXIT route from the particular block you're using, so that the last bits of air go up into the hose.

When fitting the blocks (after your first 24hr leak-test is completed) Place your PC so that motherboard is horizontal, so that this helps to 'feed' any remaining excess air, into the extraction pipe directly to the resevator (where it floats harmlessly into the top of the vented tank.)

I personally do this process block by block too, until the last block, where I re-trim the hose by the length of the hose connector on the water-block, to make a nice tight final fit!

Connect your water-blocks, block by block (see above removing air-pockets,) while still testing for any leaks [stand blocks on paper-towel] then again leave the pump running, for a further 24 hours or more, once all has been fitted 'in-situ' and the tank topped-up if it needs it...

This will prevent any possible air-pockets being retained anywhere, within the block(s)[which WILL and DOES cause the over-heating!] and the final 24hr test run, should prove if anything, anywhere is leaking.

If it is, then restart [the last full 24hr] test after each leak has been (found) stopped and cured. This may take you several days, if you have multiple water-block leaks, as one of my friends did (mainly caused by poorly cut hosing.) Advice: Buy a special hose-cutter to keep all your hose-cuts clean and at 90 degrees to the pipe-work.

I think I have been extremely lucky, in personally NOT having ANY leaks from the start.

Extra note: When emptying and refilling the system (as is recommended by Zalman yearly, if the PC(s) is in constant use) the same 24hr test period SHOULD also apply, during this test period, again check for leaks... I did have one or two TT (Thermaltake) memory water-blocks, that had begun to leak, however replacing these (with those listed above) cured all the leaks permanently.

That's it...

TCW, from www.virussecurelab.com

Regular external (atmospheric) temperature is 35-40C!

System runs cooler than the atmosphere, 99% of the time!

-eor (end of review)